Fort Davis was established in 1854 by Major General Persifor Smith to protect settlers and mail wagons traveling on the San Antonio-El Paso Road and the Chihuahua Trail. The site was chosen because it is protected by sheer rock walls on three sides. The fort was named for Secretary of War Jefferson Davis. When the U.S. Civil War broke out, the U.S. Army abandoned the fort. Jefferson Davis became president of the Confederacy. Confederate soldiers moved in, but they ultimately abandoned Fort Davis in 1862 as well. Following the Civil War, the 24th and 25th U.S Infantry regiments and the 9th and 10th Cavalry regiments were stationed here. These units consisted entirely of African-American troops. The 10th Cavalry was the first African-American unit to be called “Buffalo Soldiers” – the name was later applied to all of the Army’s African-American soldiers.
The Fort was named a National Historic Landmark in 1960, and became a unit of the National Park Service in 1961. The site is considered to be the best remaining example of a frontier military post. The Park Service is working diligently to restore and preserve the remaining structures.
A visit to Fort Davis National Historic Site is easily incorporated into a trip to Big Bend National Park. In fact, we visited Fort Davis National Historic Site on our way back to Midland International Air and Space Port after enjoying three days at Big Bend.
Visiting Fort Davis’s Historic Structures
The self-guided tour of Fort Davis National Historic Site begins at the visitor center, which is located inside a restored barracks along the east side of the Parade Ground. The visitor center contains a museum that tells the story of life at the fort and a small gift shop.
After paying the entry fee at the visitor center, check out the restored barracks next door to see what life was like for the enlisted men of the 10th Calvary. The barracks is set up with beds, personal items, and uniforms like those that the 10th Calvary would have used. A variety of wagons, carts, and cannons used by the U.S. Army in the 1800s are housed in the barn adjacent to the barracks. We found the Gatling gun to be particular interesting to see.
Continuing around the parade grounds, visitors can enter the restored commissary, which functioned as the fort’s general store. The path to the commissary passes the foundations of barracks, granaries, and other buildings.
After exploring the commissary, continue around the Parade Ground to Officer’s Row. There are three restored and furnished buildings along Officer’s Row: the Officer’s Kitchen and Servant’s Quarters, the Commanding Officer’s Quarters, and the Shared Lieutenants’ Quarters. We enjoyed seeing the inside of these quaint little homes and swinging on the commanding officer’s porch.
The Fort’s hospital is located behind Officer’s Row. A walk through the hospital tells the story of five people who lived at the fort and received treatment for various injuries and illnesses at the hospital. We found the restored pharmacy to be the most interesting room in the hospital.
Hiking at Fort Davis National Historic Site
Lovely hiking trails lead from the Fort to the tops of the surrounding cliffs. The trails are well maintained and offer unique views down to the Fort below. We enjoyed a short hike along the Scenic Overlook Trail.
Watch out for the Texas sized grasshoppers as you walk or hike through the national historic site!
Fort Davis is Dog Friendly!
We flew into Midland International Air & Space Port, so our dog Liberty didn’t get to make this trip, but we are sure she would have loved climbing the trails to the top of the cliffs! Dogs are welcome to explore the grounds and trials as long as they are kept on a leash no longer than six feet. Don’t forget to pick up after your pup!
Looking for even more West Texas fun?
Cute and quirky Marfa, Texas is a favorite hangout of artists and celebrities. We had breakfast tacos at the Sentinel, home to local newspaper, before exploring the Marfa’s little pink buildings.
There are two unique art installations just west of Marfa. The first is a tribute to the 1956 movie Giant starring Elizabeth Taylor, James Dean, and Rock Hudson. This larger than life piece created by artist John Cerney even plays music from the film.
The second is the famous “Prada Marfa” installation by Elmgreen and Dragset. Prada Marfa was originally intended to be installed along the highway between Los Angeles and Las Vegas and called “Prada Nevada,” but the State of Nevada prevented its installation there. Instead, the artists set it up just outside of Valentine, Texas in 2005. It actually went unnoticed by the Texas Department of Transportation until 2013. Bring a lock to latch on the fence behind the structure!
Also along the highway between Marfa and Valentine, motorists encounter the U.S. Customs and Border Patrol’s Tethered Aerostat Radar System or T.A.R.S. This little white blimp is monitoring for low flying aircraft traffic smuggling drugs across the U.S.-Mexico border. The blimp is visible on the highway from Fort Davis to Marfa, and we had fun guessing at what it might be as we approached. We took the Davis Mountains Scenic Loop north toward Midland. The highway winds through surprisingly large mountains. The scenery is fun and unexpected.
We made one last stop before our flight home at the George W. Bush Childhood Home in Midland. George and Barbara Bush bought this little house when they moved to Midland in 1951. George was elected to the U.S. House of Representaives, then served as U.N Ambassador, C.I.A. Director, Vice President, and President of the United States. George W. became governor of Texas, then President of the United States. George W.’s younger brother, Jeb, served as governor of Florida. It was interesting to see where the Bush family lived in the 1950s!
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