On our way back to Midland Air & Space Port from Big Bend National Park, we hit up Marfa and Fort Davis National Historic Site. We didn’t get the full Marfa experience, but we were able to get a feel for the quirky West Texas town, while still soaking in all of the history at Fort Davis. We even had time for one last stop in Midland before our flight home! Here’s how we made the most of one day:
Breakfast in Marfa
We were traveling through Marfa on a Monday, so most of the businesses were closed, but we still enjoyed seeing the fun pink buildings that make the town unique. Our first stop was at the Sentinel, the publisher of Marfa’s newspaper, which also sells books, stylish clothing, and delicious breakfast tacos. After enjoying our breakfast tacos, we explored Marfa on foot taking in the courthouse, fire station, and the historic Hotel Paisano.
Marfa’s Giant Art Installations
Just west of Marfa on highway 90, you’ll find California artist John Cerney’s massive mural dedicated to the 1956 movie Giant starring Elizabeth Taylor, James Dean, and Rock Hudson. Cerney, who is a big fan of James Dean, reached out to the Marfa Chamber of Commerce and offered to donate this huge art installation to memorialize the movie which was filmed nearby. The mural even plays the music from the classic film.
Continue west on Highway 90 through the town of Valentine to reach Prada Marfa – a “pop architectural art land project” created by Elmgreen & Dragset. The project may have been designed as a criticism of consumerism and luxury branding, but it has also come to reinforce capitalist values. Bring a lock to latch onto the chain link fence behind the sculpture.
Border Patrol T.A.R.S. Blimp
Also along highway 90 between Marfa and Valentine, motorists encounter the U.S. Customs and Border Patrol’s Tethered Aerostat Radar System or T.A.R.S. This little white blimp is monitoring for low flying aircraft traffic trying to smuggle drugs across the U.S.-Mexico border.
Enjoy the Scenic Drive to Fort Davis
The road between Prada Marfa and Fort Davis skirts unexpectedly tall mountains as it winds through West Texas. The town of Fort Davis is straight out of a John Ford Western Movie with its historic Old West architecture. Grab lunch at the historic Fort Davis Drugstore before visiting Fort Davis National Historic Site.
Fort Davis National Historic Site
The Fort was named a National Historic Landmark in 1960, and became a unit of the National Park Service in 1961. Fort Davis is considered to be the best remaining example of a frontier military post. The Park Service is working diligently to restore and preserve the remaining structures. It was established as a military post in 1854 to protect settlers and mail wagons traveling on the San Antonio-El Paso Road.
Following the Civil War, the US Army stationed the 10th Cavalry at Fort Davis – the 10th was an all African-American unit that was the first unit to be called Buffalo Soldiers. Along with the 10th Cavalry, the 9th Cavalry and 24th and 25th Infantry were also stationed at Fort Davis. Today, there are several refurbished and furnished buildings that visitors can check out to see what life was like on the plains of West Texas following the Civil War. The national historic site also features nicely maintained hiking trials that reach the top of the surrounding cliffs.
One last historic stop in Midland!
Before we dropped off our rental car at Midland Air & Space Port, we swung by George W. Bush’s Boyhood Home. This house was home to two U.S. presidents, a First Lady, and the governor of Florida. George Bush bought this little home when the Bush family moved to Midland in 1951. Bush was the most qualified man to ever serve as U.S. President having served in combat in World War II, the U.S. Congress, as CIA Director, as United Nations Ambassador, and as Vice President before being elected President in 1988. His son George W. was elected governor of Texas, then became the President of the United States in 2000. It was interesting to think about the Bush family spending time here in West Texas. George W.’s little brother Jeb became governor of Florida.
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